Monday, January 5, 2015

Kitchen knives (outdated)

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For some reason, I am fond of kitchen knives. It probably started many years ago when Jasna was so kind to get me my first high-quality chef's knife and I realized how much more pleasant it was to use really good tools. I have obtained many knives since then, but I still keep those first knives around and sharp. Most I still use.

I wrote the text below after I helped prepare food at a company picnic and had to field many questions about knives. I appreciated the questions and uncertainty people faced. Good knives can be very expensive, though one may be surprised to find out that one absolutely does not need to break the bank. The number of options are bewildering, so even finding a starting point tends to be hard. When you find articles and reviews of knives, many people have strong opinions about how a knife should feel, what properties it should have. Not sure any of that contributes to the comfort level when someone is just trying to get some basic information.

Below, I am trying to present a simple story from my personal perspective.
Apologies for formatting issues, copy-paste from Google docs into a blog post had some challenges.

Summary

One really needs 3 knives only:
Some people also like a utility knife. The one I have is pretty much a large paring knife, so it gets lots of use. Santoku knives have become very popular lately. I find them too short for cutting anything large. If you do your own butchering, get a boning knife - start with a flex blade for chicken and fish, and use a sturdy blade to butcher larger animals.

One can spend an unlimited amount of money on knives. Order a customized gyuto from a Japanese master and some thousands of dollars later you will have an awesome tool that you may not want to put to daily use.

Size matters

Large knives tend to intimidate people. Try one for a while and you will never go back. My preference is a 12 inch chef's knife, but that does not have to be the case with you.

An enormous, yet so useful knife. Cabbage, watch out!

Technique really matters


It is not hard at all to use a knife properly. It does not take all that much practice either. It is an investment worth making as the experience will be much more satisfying, you will be much faster, and your use of a knife will be much safer. In the days of YouTube, your free lesson is one search away.


Handle and balance

You may hear people be very particular about the handle and the balance. The reality is that one can and does adapt to the tool they have available, especially if you are not using it for 10 hours every day. I have yet to meet a sharp knife I did not learn to enjoy using. Some knives have an asymmetric handle, so knives can be different for left and right handed people.


This being said, knives do feel differently. Chances are you will not notice or not know what the difference means. Even more likely, if a knife is sharp, you will get used to it and will not care.

Hardness matters less

Many web sites cite hardness of the steel on the Rockwell scale. The higher the hardness, the longer your knife will stay sharp. Every knife dulls, though, and the harder the steel, the harder it is to sharpen it. Too me, the ease of sharpening matters more - I don’t chop or slice for 10 hours every day, so the frequency of sharpening will be low in any case.

Best Value

Victorinox knives are in general the best value out there. They are widely used in commercial kitchens for a reason - good quality yet relatively inexpensive. They are dishwasher safe, though Victorinox recommends hand-washing, which is what I do.

I have recently discovered Zhen knives, which I think may be an even better value than Victorinox. Definitely that is the case for the 12 inch chef's knife - the steel is exactly the same VG-10 used in japanese knives. It is reasonably easy to sharpen and holds the edge quite nicely.

I dislike Victorinox paring knives to the point I gave all of mine away. I prefer paring knives to be sturdier.


The awesome offset bread knife
Here are some options:
If you want to get a block, this one from Victorinox will give you every knife that you can ever dream of using.


Going a bit fancy

Going fancier will give you some improvement at a significant price hike. Personally, I believe this is a waste of money unless you are a knife nut like me. 
So pretty
You also get knives that start looking like pieces of art that you and your guests will marvel at. Here are some suggestions if you feel like splurging:
Really fancy

A knife made by a Japanese master sets you back several thousand dollars, and you will acquire a true piece of art. Consider making a charitable donation instead.

Knife sharpening

I have been fiddling with knife sharpening tools for quite some time, trying to find a way to take shortcuts. At the end, I decided to bite the bullet and use japanese waterstones, which are the ultimate in knife sharpening and allow you to get knives as sharp or sharper than new. Using the waterstones is not hard, and there are plenty of YouTube videos explaining the process. The whole thing does take some time and is a bit messy: One needs to soak the stones for at least 10 minutes, and for several hours if at all possible. One needs to remember that paper towels had been invented, and use them to collect the sludge that will form and that is key to sharpening. Finally, one needs a steady hand to maintain the angle, and patience to enjoy the meditative experience of sliding your knife up and down the stone.


For a complete set, one needs about 3 stones: A coarse one, 250 grit or so for emergency situations when you nick a blade. A medium one, 1000 grit, and a finer one, 4000 grit is common. If you like your blade polished - not really necessary for kitchen knives, then you go to higher grits, 8000 or more. Going even further, one would finish the process with a strop. My setup doesn’t have a coarse stone given that my blades are in a good shape. Here is what I have used for a long time:
I got a pair of sharpening rails to learn the angle, but I do not use them any more as I find them cumbersome. Because I am a knife geek I have since migrated to a set of Shapton ceramic stones and sometimes I break out a strop for the final touch.

Maintenance
  • You need a honing steel to align the edge after use. F. Dick makes the very best your money can probably buy, but you will get good use out of any decent steel, like this one from Henckels, for example.
  • In a pinch I admit I use this little gadget which works surprisingly well, just touch the knife with a honing steel after your have it sharpened and you are good for a short while. Then sharpen the knife properly as the edge is barely passable and will not last for long.

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