Hummus

Hummus is one of my favorite ways to consume beans. Chickpea is quick to soak and to cook, so one can make hummus quickly even if making it from dry beans. Using freshly cooked chickpea is so worth it as it elevates the flavor. A bonus is that one can utilize the bean cooking liquid and give hummus even more flavor. 

My favorite hummus contains herbs, which may offend hummus purists. The herbs provide lots of flavor and allow me to use less olive oil, making the dish much less fatty than the "proper hummus". One surely needs to taste the olive oil, and the flavor boost from the herbs is nothing short of spectacular.

This is a dish that one almost needs to eyeball, I cannot imagine measuring the ingredients carefully - hence the quantities listed below are directional at best. I very much prefer using a food processor over a blender here: I find the consistency much easier to control, and the clean-up is so much easier.

Ingredients

• Freshly cooked chickpeas I use about 1/2 to 1/3 lb beans.
• You can use canned beans if that is your preference. You will need to add more herbs and olive oil to compensate for the flavor. Use some filtered water instead of bean cooking liquid. You may also need to add a pinch of salt - but test the hummus first.
• Reserved liquid from cooking the beans. I eyeball the quantity.
• Extra virgin olive oil, 1/3 cup or so.
• Tahini, about 3 - 4 TBS.
• Juice from 1 lemon.
• Optional: Garlic powder to taste: start with 1 tsp and adjust.
• Optional: Leaves plucked from a few sprigs of fresh herbs - thyme, oregano, marjoram, sage.
• Optional: 1 tsp miso.

Procedure

1. Soak the beans for 4-6 h at a room temperature. Cook in an electric pressure cooker with 1tsp salt and a few bay leaves for 8-9 minutes - the beans should be covered with about an inch of water. Let the pressure fall, then cool the beans in a bowl, and reserve and cool the cooking liquid.
2. In a food processor combine the beans, tahini, lemon juice, garlic powder, herbs, and miso. Add about 8 or so TBS of bean cooking liquid and the olive oil. 
3. Process until smooth. If needed, slowly add more bean cooking liquid or olive oil by a tablespoon while the food processor is running. Stop when you achieve the desired consistency and the desired flavor.
4. Eat right away, and/or store in a fridge, optionally with extra olive oil.
1. I usually do not add more olive oil, but when I feel like indulging, I do, and it is very tasty.

Yumi's sleep tea

Our family doctor Yumi recommended this tea as a sleep aid in her newsletter, addressing sleep challenges many people have been facing during the pandemic. We tried the tea, we like the taste, and we love the calming effect.

To make the tea mixture, mix the following ingredients. Percentages are by weight:

• Valerian root: 30%
• Linden: 20%
• Kava kava: 20%
• Chamomile: 20%
• Catnip: 10%

To make tea: Use 1 tsp of the mixture per cup of tea. Use boiling water. Steep for 20 minutes.

Drink 1-2 cups, 2-3h before bedtime.

Ricotta parmesan gnocchi

I used to be afraid of making potato gnocchi after hearing they were difficulty 9 out of 10. I think this has to do with making the dough just right, so that it is not tough yet it does not fall apart. Then, years ago, I came across a recipe for ricotta gnocchi, which changed my attitude. Suddenly, gnocchi were a dish that I could whip together easily and quickly, with consistently delicious results.

I have kept the recipe on a small card in my pantry - it simply contained the list of ingredients. I want to transcribe that to a more permanent form here, so that it is easier to find. For those who desire an in-depth coverage of ricotta gnocchi I suggest to look at the fabulous writeup in Serious Eats. But this is about trivial food, so let me record my super easy approach.

Ricotta gnocchi in cream sauce with shiitake mushrooms

Ingredients

• 200g full fat ricotta
• 70-120g flour
• Freshly milled whole einkorn is amazing. All-purpse flour works very well, too.
• I usually go with 120g flour, as the gnocchi are still super creamy yet they do no fall apart very easily, and I can shape them in a bowl with a spoon, no need to roll them out.
• 1 egg, whisked
• 40g grated parmesan
• A pinch of salt

Procedure

1. Combine and mix all ingredients in a bowl,.. You will get a reasonably dense mixture.
2. Bring a pot of salted water to a rolling boil.
1. That allows the mixture to rest for a few minutes, helping the four absorb the moisture
3. Shape gnocchi with a small (dessert) spoon quickly and drop them, one at a time, into the boiling water.
4. The gnocchi float to the surface after a minute or so. Remove the floating gnocchi from the water with a spider or a slotted spoon.
1. Place gnocchi into the sauce of your choice - tomato or cream based.

Experimenting with Tartine Salted Chocolate Rye Cookies

We have a solid collection of cookbooks. Sadly, I rarely use any of them. These days, internet has millions of recipes, and one can always google for variations and inspirations, and combine the recipes into what feels like a dish one would like to make. 

Recently, a package appeared on our door step, containing a gift from a friend, the Tartine Book No. 3. It is a gorgeous book, and Tartine is a gorgeous bakery, but it is still a cookbook. So I wondered what would happen with it, would it collect dust. As I started to read the book, I found Chad Robertson's writing so refreshing. Down to earth, inquisitive, explorative. In the book he explores usage of different types of flour, and that speaks volumes to me. Since we got your grain mill, a large part of my baking has been about combining flours from different types of grain.

The friend who gifted us the book was raving about the salted chocolate rye cookies and confessed that they were actively looking for opportunities to make the cookies again.

In my first two attempts I followed the recipe faithfully. The cookies were DELICIOUS and super fudgy. So good that I made the recipe again within a week or so. But... the cookies did not look like the cookies from the book. In the book the cookies had a body and shape, and my cookies were as flat as Kansas. 

So I wondered whether i was either doing something wrong, e.g. did not cool the dough enough, or maybe the cookies could use more flour. I decided to double the flour and what came out was close to perfection - very chocolatey, very fudgy, soft, yet with enough body and shape to look attractive. Later I realized that using a stand mixer made the difference. Initially I was using a hand-held mixer to whip the eggs and sugar, and I am sure the mixing action did not meet what the recipe asked for. Whipping with a stand mixer for 6+ minutes requires no more flour than what the recipe calls for. 

This means there is a choice: Use a hand mixer and double the flour, or use a stand mixer and stay faithful to the recipe. I admit I use the stand mixer as the cookies are extra fudgy.

These cookies are plain awesome as it. I do plan to tinker with the recipe some more, just because that is what I do. For example I am pretty sure some walnuts would be an awesome addition. Before we go there, let us record this attempt so that it can be recreated.

Ingredients

• 454g (2 2/3 cups) dark chocolate, preferably 70% chocolate
• 57g (4 TBS) g unsalted butter - this amounts to about 1/2 stick of butter
• 85g rye flour, freshly milled if at all possible - this amounts to about 1.5 cup
• double the flour if you are not using a stand mixer for the eggs and sugar.
• 1-2 tsp baking powder
• I used 2 tsp and the recipe worked out great
• 1/4 tsp fine sea salt
• 200g (4 large or 3 extra large) eggs
• 1 tsp vanilla extract
• 300g muscovado sugar 
• The original recipe called for 340g muscovado sugar
• I used dark brown sugar instead of muscovado with success
• Flaky sea salt for topping (optional but really nice)

Procedure

I pretty much followed the recipe from the cookbook

1. In a double boiler melt the chocolate and the butter, Set aside to cool a little.
2. In a bowl, whisk together the flour, the salt, and the baking powder. Set aside.
3. In a mixer, using a whisk attachment, whip eggs on medium-high speed. Add the sugar slowly and keep mixing until the volume increases significantly. The volume will almost triple.
1. This takes some time - the recipe calls for 6 minutes or so.
4. Reduce the speed to low and mix in the melted chocolate-butter mixture and the vanilla.
1. Make sure that the chocolate is cool enough so that the eggs don's coagulate.
2. Use a spatula to scrape the wall balls.
5. Stop the mixer, add the flour mixture and mix it in on a low speed until just combined.
6. The dough will be quite soft. Transfer the dough in a metal bowl or use your mixer bowl. Cover the bowl with plastic wrap and refrigerate the dough for about 30 minutes.
1. If the dough is in the fridge too long, it will harden and will be hard to scoop. In that case, let is warm up sufficiently, e.g. to the room temperature, so that you can work with it,
7. Preheat the oven to 350F
8. Line two baking sheets with parchment.
9. Scoop the cookies with a rounded tablespoon onto the baking sheet, leaving about 2 inches of space between the balls.
1. I used a small ice-cream scoop, which is a bit larger than the tablespoon, and had to bake the cookies 3 minutes longer.
10. Optionally, sprinkle a few salt flakes on top of each cookie. 
1. I used salt from the bay of Piran, simply because I had it.
11. Bake for 8-10 minutes until the cookies are baked through and have a rounded top from puffing up.
12. Remove the baking sheets from the oven, let cool slightly, then continue to cool the cookies on a wire rack to cool completely.

Ajdovi čokoladni piškoti s soljo 

Ta recept je prirejen po receptu za ržene čokoladne piškote iz imentne kuharske knjige Tartine Book No. 3. Tartine je znana pekarna v San Franciscu, ki je objavila precej svojih receptov v kuharskih knjigah.

V receptu sta dve spremembi: Ker rž vsebuje gluten, uporabljava ajdovo moko in dve zvrhani žlici brezglutenske moke, ki pomaga pri strukturi piškotov. Zmanjšala sva količino sladkorja, ker je originalen recept namenjen ameriškemu okusu, kjer so sladice veliko bolj sladke kot v Evropi.

Sestavine

• 450g temne čokolade, priporočava kvalitetno čokolado z vsaj 70% kakava
• Opazka: 400g je dovolj, če se čokolada kupi v 100g tablicah
• 57g masla
• 85g ajdove moke, ali mešanica 2 žlic brezglutenske moke, ostanek pa je ajdova moka
• če ne uporabljate kuhinjskega robota oziroma prostostoječega mešalnika, priporočava, da količino moke podvojite, da se piškoti ne razlezejo
• pol vrečke pecilnega praška
• 1/4 žličke drobno mlete soli
• 4 velika jajca, približno 200g
• vrečka vanilijevega sladkorja
• 250g rjavega sladkorja (340g sladkroja muscovado po originalnem receptu, bel sladkor tudi deluje, če rjavega nimate)
• Po izbiri: Drobci solnega cveta, da se poglobi okus čokolade

Postopek

1. V skledi zmešajte moko, 1/4 žličke soli in pecilni prašek. Če ima pecilni prašek grudice, ga presejte skozi cedilo.
2. Stalite čokolado in maslo: V kozici zavrite za en prst vode, ki naj vre zelo počasi. Na kozico položite kovinsko skledo, tako, da se dno ne dotika vode. V skledo dajte čokolado in maslo in občasno mešajte. Para bo ustvarila nežno vročino, ki bo čokolado in maslo stalila.
3. Ko je čokolada staljena, skledo umaknite s kozice, da se malo ohladi.
4. Med tem, ko se čokolada tali, zmiksajte jajca na srednje visoki hitrosti mešalca. Počasi dodajate vanilijev sladkor in rjavi sladkor in mešajte, dokler se volumen ne poveča skoraj za tri krat.
1. To je najlažje narediti s kuhinjskim robotom oziroma s prostostoječim mešalcem. čas mešanja je dobrih 6 minut, tako da pazite, da se mešalec ne pregreje.
2. Če uporabite ročni mešalec, stepite jajca in sladkor, koliko se da in podvojite količino moke, da se piškoti ne razlezejo.
5. Zmanjšajte hitrost mešalca in v testo dodajte staljeno čokolado in maslo. 
1. Čokolada se mora malenkost ohladiti, da se jajca ne skuhajo. Zato je treba čokolado dodajati med mešanjem.
6. Na rahlo vmešajte moko v testo. To je najlažje narediti tako, da ustavite mešalec, dodate moko, in potem poženete mešalec na zelo nizki hitrosti. Mešajte samo tako dolgo, da je moka ravno vmešana in ne dlje.
7. Testo bo zelo mehko in skoraj tekoče. Testo prestavite v kovinsko skledo ali uporabite kovinsko skledo vašega mešalca. Skledo pokrijte s pokrovom ali plastično folijo in jo dajte v hladilnik za približno 30 minut. 
1. Testo lahko pustite v hladilniku dlje, a se bo precej strdilo in bo z njim težko delati.
2. Če je testo pretrdo, počakajte, da se na pultu dovolj segreje, da lahko z njim delate,
8. Začnite segrevati pečico na 175C
9. Na dva pekača položite papir za peko
10. Za en piškot vzamite iz sklede zvrhano žlico testa, oblikujte ga v (pol)kroglo in ga položite na pekač. Med piškoti pustite kakih 5 cm prostora, ker se bodo malo razširili.
1. To je najlažje narediti z žlico za delanje kepic sladoleda, samo pazite, da žlica ni prevelika.
11. Če želite, dajte na vsak piškot drobec soli - najboljši je solni cvet. To bo poglobilo okus čokolade, so pa piškoti zelo dobri tudi brez dodane soli.
12. Pečite 8-10 minut (midva jih pečeva 10 minut). Piškoti bodo zgoraj zaobljeni, ker se bodo malo napeli. 
13. Pekača odstranite iz pečice, počakajte, da se malo ohladi, potem pa piškote nežno prestavite na mrežo za hlajenje.
14. V zaprti posodi ostanejo piškoti dobri do tri dni.

Carbon steel

It has been a journey to arrive at cookware that I truly enjoy using. I have used every type of cookware one can imagine. Today I use carbon steel pans and a wok at least 90% of the time on the stove top: vegetables, crepes, pancakes, eggs, tofu, fish, meat, poultry, sauces. I can finish the dish in the oven. Pans work well from low to medium heat, but can also get super hot.

For the impatient, a summary:

• Carbon steel pans are easy to cook with and trivial to clean and maintain
• Carbon steel is pretty much indestructible, gets very close to non-stick, yet it can take very high heat without damage or releasing toxins.
• It is good to have a few sizes and geometries to accommodate different cooking scenarios.
• Your dollar can go very far: A $35 pan will  work every bit as well as a $350 pan. The main difference will be in the look and geometry.
• The cooking surface needs to be cured / seasoned. Fear not, seasoning is much easier and faster than what you may imagine.

Note that other types of cookware come in play as well: Stainless steel for soups, acidic foods, and steaming. Pressure cooker for steaming, braising, beans, and an occasional one-pot dish. An enameled cast-iron pot for baking bread. We still have a few non-stick pieces, but they largely sit unused.

The one thing I regret about carbon steel is that I was completely unaware of it until a few years ago. As I was becoming weary of replacing non-stick pans, and of watching that I don't overheat them, I decided to give cast iron a proper shot. I got a nice collection, learned that seasoning the pans was super easy, and I learned how to cook with them. But something didn't quite work. I think it was the short handles that got seriously hot. That, combined with the heft of the pans, made handling quite difficult. Hence, the level of usefulnes and happiness was not quite at a desired level.

One day I came across an article about carbon steel. Heavily used in professional kitchens. Indestructible. Same non-stick properties as cast iron. Holds heat well, but heats up faster than cast iron and reacts faster to burner changes. Works on every stove type including induction. Much lighter than cast iron. Handles do not get hot. That got my attention.

Note that carbon steel is a type of steel. It is characterized by a carbon content below 2%. I find it interesting that its cousin cast iron has a higher carbon percentage, up to 4%. The literature says that the lower percentage of carbon makes carbon steel more malleable, hence the pans can be thinner and lighter and less brittle than cast iron.

How to use carbon steel pans?

The insane rush all the time and the admittedly awful cookware we all tend to start with teach us to cook at high heat only. Non-stick pans are made of materials that conduct the heat poorly and that retain very little heat. (Side note - the Misen non-stick pan may be a rare exception) Hence we need to test how hot our burner can get.

Carbon steel pans take a minute or two to heat up on medium low to medium heat. That allows them to heat up evenly across the board. Accidentally, I think it takes my non-stick pans longer to heat up sufficiently.

Once the pan is hot, it is ready to be used. The trick is to find the lowest heat setting that will do the job. On my stove that tends to be medium low. Even for things like crepes that I used to cook at super high heat, I don't crank the heat up. The food releases nicely from the pan with minimum amount of oil used.

Once you put the food in the pan, do not get nervous and leave it alone for a bit. Let it sear and release from the pan. I promise, it will release unless you cranked the heat too high. If the food happens to get stuck to the pan a bit, it releases easily with a bit of help of your metal spatula.

Once the cooking is done, let the pan cool for a few minutes - so that the water doesn't sizzle when it hits the pan. That is the case for any pan, actually, as you want to prevent any possible warping or damage to the cooking surface in case of non-stick pans. Then take a stiff (bamboo) brush and remove bits and pieces of food that may be in the pan, under running water. I use my hand to feel that the pan surface is smooth again - that works much better than looking at the pan.

If you need to soak the pan, fill it with a bit of water and let stand just for a minute or two, to reduce the risk of rusting. If you feel you need to use the dish soap, go ahead. I usually don't use it, but occasionally I use my soft scrubby to clean the pan. No damage to seasoning.

Before putting the pan away, make sure it is dry. If it is well seasoned, you can let it air dry. But some rust can develop. I usually put a pan on a burner for a minute while I do other things. This is now a routine and is much less work than I imagined. I don't oil my pans before storing them, but I do a quick stove-top re-seasoning when I have a minute and want to have some fun.

Lessons learned

I use pans made by a number of brands: Matfer Bourgeat, De Buyer, Lodge, Northwest skillet company, Solidteknics, Made In, Misen, and Smithey. Let me provide a run down and main lessons learned.

1. The shape of a pan may be the most important factor. I love the deeper Made In pan, and the Northwest skillet company saute pan because I can toss the food around without worrying it would fly out of the pan. On the other hand, food that needs turning is much easier handled in more flared-out pans, such as Matfer, Smithey, Lodge and Misen - it is much easier to get the spatula under the food. Solidteknics is somewhere in the middle - the pan walls are straight up, but they are somewhat short.
2. The size of the pan matters too. Smaller pans heat up more easily on smaller burners, while for the 12 inch pans I tend to use my largest burner.
3. The cooking surface of each pan I tried has worked well after the pan had been seasoned and used for a while. That is, I can scramble eggs as well on the $35 Lodge as on the $300 Smithey.
4. One can cook delicate food on carbon steel pans. I regularly make scramble eggs that are super creamy, using just a bit of olive oil. 
5. Preheat the pan and cook on medium low to medium heat. It takes less time for my carbon steel pans to get hot and even smoking than for my non-stick pans to heat up.
6. I have a dedicated pan for cooking fish. The pans can take on some of the flavor of the food, so I have allocated a pan for fish. There are no issues with cooking delicate fish such as sole.
7. The smoothness of the surface helps with the initial seasoning and it simply feels good. Surprisingly, my Lodge pans that have rougher surfaces, after some use, are just as good as other smoother pans. 
8. My pans are between 2 to 3mm thick. I think the thickness makes some difference - I have to be a little more careful when using thinner pans. Frankly, I am splitting hair here. If the pan is thick enough, and 2mm seems to be the magic number, the thickness seems to be less of a factor.
9. The handle material matters. Stainless steel handles pretty much do not heat up, while carbon steel handles can get warm.
10. The handle shape matters, though it is a personal preference. I really like the curved Made In handles, they just fit well in my hand and make it easy to manipulate the pan.
11. Seasoning is trivial. I think the only challenge is that none of us wants to mess up a nice pan, and we can be uncertain about the process. See below how one can fix a pan in a few minutes.
12. There is no need to fuss about the kind of oil used for seasoning. Any neutral cooking oil will do as long as it does not contains impurities such as extra virgin olive oil. I have use sunflower, grape seed, canola, walnut, and coconut, and all worked well. Flax seed oil also worked well, but my experience matches reports that it may flake off more easily than other oils. 
13. Cleaning is easy: Let the pan cool a bit. Under hot water, brush away any stuck-on particles. I prefer a bamboo brush because it takes higher temperatures and I don't need to be that careful. Drying the pan for a minute on a stove will prevent rust in a case your seasoning is damaged. I don't oil the pans when I put them away. The oil is messy and I don't want a rancid oil in my pan in a case I don't use it for a while. 
14. Soap does not damage the seasoning. I tested this repeatedly, and can testify there was no impact on the seasoning. 
15. Scouring pads and acidic food will strip away the seasoning. This is no big deal though, you can have pan ready to go in 5 minutes or so. See below for how to do it.
16. Use metal utensils. Especially metal turners or spatulas come in handy. Plastic ones have a good chance of melting, and silicone ones can be too soft, maybe with the exception of supoon that I do use regularly.

A pan after baking claufutis that contained lemon juice

 

The same pan ready to be used again after a quick seasoning / curing

Who are these pans for?

I am tempted to say that everyone should have a carbon steel pan, but that would be going too far. If your extent of cooking is to reheat a frozen dinner, then these pans are not for you. I may want to talk you into investing more into self nutrition, but that is not the topic here.

I would say that anyone who is willing to invest just a little effort in cooking is a good candidate for a carbon steel pan. It is simply easier make better food with them.

Seasoning / curing is likely a reason for people not to try carbon steel. The hurdle is only mental. I too was uncertain about the process, but once I tried it, I could not understand what was stopping me originally.  The idea of something that genuinely improves with use is foreign to today's mentality. Seasoning also doesn't take much if any extra time: I touch up my pans while I clean up in the kitchen - there is no need to pay attention to a smoking pan on a stove top.

My suggestion is to get an inexpensive carbon steel pan and make it a fun project to season it. Once you realize how little effort and time it takes, and once you realize that seasoning is actually quite fun, nothing will stop you.

How would I choose what pans to get? The suggestions below are among the pans I have used. I have not included the Misen pan into the consideration, because I simply have not used it enough - for at least 6 months or so, to be comfortable with voicing my opinion. Clearly, there are great pans I have not tried. For example, I have been unsuccessful in the Blu Skillet Ironware lotteries, and their pans are super highly regarded. They are also super expensive, so I am not sure whether I would keep trying to get one.

If I was buying one pan

What pan would I choose if I was buying my first carbon steel pan? Size wise, my default would be a 12 inch pan, regardless if I was cooking just for myself or for a family. That gives me the flexibility to use the pan as a griddle for pancakes or crepes in addition to searing and sautéing. If 12 inches feels too large, one can totally go with 10 inches.

Which pan I would start with is clearly a personal choice, and not an obvious one. If this was my very first carbon steel pan, I would likely go on the less expensive side and start with the Lodge 12 inch pan. It is a fantastic pan, and at $45 chances are I may be less fearful of ruining it than if I went with a more expensive option. That pan comes pre-seasoned, so one can start cooking right away. When I got mine, I immediately put on a few extra layers of seasoning, and the pan was performing really well immediately. 

Note that if one is starting with a 10 inch pan, the Lodge version is pretty small. It is a great pan though, and at $35 the value is hard to beat. If one wants a bit larger cooking surface, other pans may be a more suitable choice - Solidteknics, Made In or Misen come to mind.

A strong considerations for the first pan would be a 12 inch Solidteknics. The advantage of that pan is that it has a bit larger cooking surface than the Lodge, and the edges are not flared out, which gives it a slight advantage when cooking a larger amount of food. Also a worthy contender is a 12 inch Made In pan, which is pretty deep, and provides even more freedom when stirring a larger amount of food. The cooking surface of the Made In pan is, however, a bit smaller in comparison of Solidteknics.

I would reserve the fancy pans for carbon steel enthusiasts. They are truly wonderful cooking vessels and each is a unique work of art, so they really nice to own. In practical sense, my experience has been that the more "entry level" pans are actually not entry level at all when it comes to cooking performance.

 If I was buying the second pan

For my second pan I would go with a 10 inches. It is super versatile, and it still allows one to cook for multiple people. 

My favorite 10 inch pan is likely the one by Made In. It is deep, and I sauté vegetables a lot, so the extra depth comes in handy. The 2 mm thickness makes the pan super responsive to heat changes. But frankly, I use a Solidteknics pan almost as much, so one cannot go wrong with either. If you want a smaller 10 inch pan, the one by Lodge is great. It comes pre-seasoned, and with bit more seasoning it is quite perfect.

I do love my 10 inch Northwest skillet company sauté pan - again because of the extra depth and straight up edges. But, is it worth it to spend 3 to 4 times as much on it? Unless you are an enthusiast or just want to have it, I would recommend using the cash on a few more really good pans.

Beyond the second pan

Beyond the second pan, it really is hard to make any recommendation. It really depends on what you cook.

For example, if you cook fish regularly, I would recommend a dedicated pan. I use a 10 inch pan by Matfer, because I already had it, and its thickness helps with even heating. Misen or De Buyer would work as well for the same reason.

I like to roast vegetables and I wanted a pan that doubles as a griddle. For that, a 14 inch Matfer Paella pan works great. It's awesome on a stove, especially if you have wide burner. Other alternatives may be a fancy griddle by Northwest skillet company, or maybe a roasting pan by Made In - but the higher walls may make it more challenging to use it as a griddle.

14 inch Matfer paella pan used as a griddle

This is also a point when different geometries come in play. You may want a selection of deeper and shallower pans, depending on what you are cooking. 

Or you may want more specialty pans - if you wok a lot, you may choose a wok as your first pan. Thinner woks come at about 1.6 mm thickness and are super responsive to heat - there are many choices available. I opted for a wok by Made In, because it is a bit smaller at 12 inches, and learned that a bit thicker metal - Made In comes at 2mm - still works very well. I do prefer a wok with a metal handle, so that I can use it in the oven if I choose to. 

Crepe pans are another noteworthy specialty items. Mine are by De Buyer and work really nicely. But... while I do make crepes quite regularly, I often grab one of the regular pans because I have them stored more handily.

French carbon steel

It seems the traditional makers of carbon steel pans are French, most notably De Buyer and Matfer Bourgeat. For my first pans I went mostly with Matfer - largely because I trusted the quality and because they were not going to break my budget. I think the most expensive Matfer pan I bought was $55. I stayed away from De Buyer Mineral B pans because their handle is covered with epoxy and is not deemed oven safe. That was a deal breaker for me, and at that time I was not aware of the De Buyer Pro line that has stainless steel handles.

Fish sauteed in a 10 inch Matfer pan

Matfer pans are truly excellent. They are made from thick metal, I believe around 3mm, they season easily, and they generally offer superb performance. On the down side, their geometry is not my favorite - a totally personal choice. I prefer pan walls to be less flared out and with larger cooking surfaces in relationship to the diameter of the pan. I gave my smaller Matfer pans away - they were just too small for me. I kept and still use the larger ones and I love using them. The geometry was the original reason for me to explore other brands. I ended up building a bit too large a collection. 

When the seasoning is stripped away

Sometimes you cook something acidic in a pan. Sometimes oil gunk builds up because one uses too much oil. Sometimes you forget the pan on a burner and the seasoning gets burned away. There are many reasons why one wants to start with seasoning from scratch. 

Here is a real example: My Made In Pan had oil gunk built up, so I used a scouring pad to remove the gunk and of course the seasoning came off as well. After under 5 minutes of scrubbing, the pan was stripped like this.

Then I rubbed the pan with an ever so thin layer of oil - you can see the shine, but the pan looks almost dry:

Next I heated the pan on a medium heat until it started to smoke, and turned and tilted it so that the sides got exposed to enough of the heat too. In my experience, overheating the pan results in poorer seasoning, so there is no need for a super high heat here. After a minute or two, the first layer of seasoning was done:

At this point, the pan was already usable. The seasoning was there to protect it against rust, and it started to provide the non-stick, or more precisely, low-stick surface. I let the pan cool down a bit, and repeated the process. The result was more seasoning and a deeper color:

Here is the result after the third layer of seasoning. The process was the same: Let the pan cool a bit, apply a super thin layer of oil, and let the pan smoke on medium heat, tilting and turning it to get the edges done as well:

Notice the increased darkness. At that time, I had to make supper. I used the pan immediately and this is how nicely it performed. I had to use very little oil, and the vegetables did not stick at all:

Here is the same pan a good week and some more use later. The seasoning is building up nicely, and food is not sticking to the pan - these are onions and cabbage being caramelized:

Geeking out with a seasoning paste or puck

For seasoning I actually use seasoning pucks I made myself from beeswax and a mixture of oils. I use the puck exactly the same as I used oil: Touch a warm pan to melt a few drops off the puck, and spread that super thinly across the pan. Then let the pan heat up slowly and smoke for half a minute. Let the pan cool, and repeat as many or as few times as your heart desires.

The ratio I use is one part of wax to one part of grape seed oil to 1 part of walnut oil. Some recommend the ratio of 1 to 1.5 to 1.5 to get a softer consistency that is nice if you scoop the paste from a tin. 

Making a puck is really easy: Melt all the ingredients in a clean tin can, and pour the mixture into silicone molds to harden. The addition of beeswax helps with achieving a very thin layer of oil on your pan, preventing pooling. 

Accidentally, this also means that if you get a new pan that is covered with beeswax for protection, you do not have to worry too much about washing the wax away perfectly - but you still have to wash the pan well...

Slovenian Potica

Potica (poh-TEET-sah) is a traditional Slovenian coffee cake that we eat pretty much at every major holiday, and especially at Christmas. Every household seems to have their own tricks and tips for how to make the best potica, and people who make good potica are really proud of their skills.

We are fortunate enough that Jasna is a master in making potica. She spent a long time fiddling with the recipe from "Vsakdanje in praznicne jedi", adjusting it until she arrived at what we believe is close to perfection in the potica land. I became pretty good at following her recipe, so my job tends to be making the dough and the filling. Rolling the dough out and making the potica itself, well, for that I would require much more practice. 

We bake potica in a bundt pan or in a straight pan, the choice tends to depend on the quantity we make. The recipe works well for both. 

Ingredients for the dough for one pan:

• 300g flour. Our preference is freshly milled whole einkorn.
• 3.25 tsp dry yeast and 1 TBS sugar
• 100 ml milk
• 70g unsalted butter
• 70g sugar
• 2 egg yolks
• 1 tsp vanilla extract
• Grated rind of one lemon. For the rind, we always use organic lemons.

Ingredients for the filling for one pan:

• 250g finely ground toasted walnuts. Pecans and almonds work great as well.
• 125 ml milk or whipping cream, or a mix
• 50g raisins soaked in rum
• 1/4 tsp cinnamon powder
• Grated rind of one lemon. For the rind, we always use organic lemons.
• Sweetener by taste: We prefer a 3 TBS or a bit more honey.
• Meringue made from the two egg whites and 1 TBS sugar.

Additional ingredients:

1. Extra butter for greasing the pan
2. To brush the potica before rising and before baking, one lightly whipped egg white.
1. We have accidentally used the whole egg and that has worked well, just that the potica seemed a bit darker.

Procedure:

1. Bring eggs and butter to the room temperature. A few hours on a counter will work.
2. To make the filling:
1. Drain the raisins.
2. Mix the nuts, cinnamon, and lemon rind. Also add sugar if you are not using honey.
3. Boil the milk and pour it over the nuts mixture.
4. Add honey and drained raisins.
5. Mix well, adjust sweetness to taste. We don't like the filling to be overly sweet.
3. To make the dough:
1. Heat the milk so that it is a bit warm to touch. Too warm milk will kill the yeast.
2. Mix the milk, the 1 TBS of sugar and the milk. Leave for 10 or so minutes for the yeast to start blooming.
3. In a mixer, mix all the ingredients for the dough until it just starts making a ball.
• DO NOT OVERMIX, the goal is not to develop gluten.
• If you use a food processor, use the pulse function.
4. To roll the potica:
1. On a sheet of parchment paper roll out potica dough so that it will fit the pan. 
• You need to experiment a bit to figure out what dimensions work for your pan.
• One dimension should be slightly longer than the width of your pan. The dimension along which you roll the potica depends of how thick/thin you want your layers to be
2. Spread the filling on the dough.
• Spread the filling all the way to the edge of the dough where you will start rolling the potica. Leave about 2 inches of the dough bare on the other three edges so that you can pinch/enclose the roll.
3. To make the roll, hold the parchment and roll the potica tightly by lifting the mat.
4. Pinch the ends of the roll so that the filling does not seep out.
5. Let the potica rise:
1. Carefully transfer the sheet with the roll to the pan.
2. Trim the parchment
3. Brush the roll with the egg white. Store the remaining egg white in the fridge.
4. Cover the pan with a plastic wrap (or traditionally with a dish cloth) 
5. Let rise for about 8h at room temperature, somewhere where it is not drafty.
• Your oven, if it is not hot, will work well. Make sure you take the potica out before you start pre-heating the oven.
6. Bake the potica:
1. Preheat the oven to 325F. We use convection.
2. Brush the roll with the stored egg white
3. Using a toothpick or a skewer punch holes through the roll, up to about 3/4 of the depth. 
• This will help prevent the crust from cracking
4. Bake for 45-50 minutes, or until a skewer comes our dry and clean
• You may need to adjust the baking time to work for your oven
5. Slide the parchment with potica from the baking pan, discard the parchment, and let potica cool, preferably on a rack

Japanese style chocolate cheesecake cooked under pressure

This is my variation on a recipe I found when I was wondering what kind of a dessert I can make in Instant Pot. I added a few ingredients and replaced the white chocolate with dark chocolate and honey. The result was impressive, and it seems this cake is becoming a part of our regular repertoire.

Ingredients:

• 4 oz dark chocolate - I like to use 70%
• 4 oz full-fat cream cheese at room temperature
• 4 TBS honey or to taste
• 3 large eggs, separated
• very small pinch of salt
• 2 TBS sugar
• 1 tsp vanilla extract
• juice of one small to medium lemon
• 1 -2 TBS grand mariner, optional

Method:

1. Add 1 inch of water in a pot, bring it to simmer
2. Add the chocolate to a metal bowl that sits well on top of the pot and melt the chocolate, stirring occasionally
3. Remove the bowl from the, add the cream cheese, and whisk it until you get a smooth mixture. A little speck of cream cheese here and there adds to the experience, but there should be no cheese chunks.
4. Add the egg yolks, the honey, the salt, the vanilla extract, and the lemon juice to the chocolate cream mixture and mix well. The mixture may become smoother and shinier.
5. Make meringue from the egg whites: Whisk the whites to a soft peak, gradually add the sugar, and continue whisking until you have a stiff meringue. Note that the bowl should not be greasy, that will possibly prevent meringue from forming.
6. Add 1/4 of the meringue to the chocolate mix and fold carefully. Then add all of the remaining meringue and fold it into the chocolate mix.
7. Grease a cake spring-form pan that fits into your instant pot, and line the bottom with parchment  paper.
8. Fill the cake pan with the chocolate mix and smooth the top.
9. To an Instant Pot pot, add 1 cup of water. Put the cake pan on top of the Instant Pot rivet, and lower it into the pot.
10. Cook on high pressure for 17 minutes, then let the pressure drop naturally.
11. Take the cake out of the Instant Pot and cool it on a rack. 
12. Remove the sides of the cake pan, separate the cake from the pan gently with a knife if needed.
13. Invert the cake pan on top of a plate and remove the parchment paper.
14. Cover the cake with plastic wrap, and cool it in a fridge - I like to do it over night.
15. Serve dusted with icing sugar that will hide any imperfections. A good accompaniment can be a dollop of a slightly sour jam. Of course, one can always add whipped cream, but I think the cake is rich enough as is.