We have a solid collection of cookbooks. Sadly, I rarely use any of them. These days, internet has millions of recipes, and one can always google for variations and inspirations, and combine the recipes into what feels like a dish one would like to make.
Recently, a package appeared on our door step, containing a gift from a friend, the Tartine Book No. 3. It is a gorgeous book, and Tartine is a gorgeous bakery, but it is still a cookbook. So I wondered what would happen with it, would it collect dust. As I started to read the book, I found Chad Robertson's writing so refreshing. Down to earth, inquisitive, explorative. In the book he explores usage of different types of flour, and that speaks volumes to me. Since we got your grain mill, a large part of my baking has been about combining flours from different types of grain.
The friend who gifted us the book was raving about the salted chocolate rye cookies and confessed that they were actively looking for opportunities to make the cookies again.
In my first two attempts I followed the recipe faithfully. The cookies were DELICIOUS and super fudgy. So good that I made the recipe again within a week or so. But... the cookies did not look like the cookies from the book. In the book the cookies had a body and shape, and my cookies were as flat as Kansas.
So I wondered whether i was either doing something wrong, e.g. did not cool the dough enough, or maybe the cookies could use more flour. I decided to double the flour and what came out was close to perfection - very chocolatey, very fudgy, soft, yet with enough body and shape to look attractive. Later I realized that using a stand mixer made the difference. Initially I was using a hand-held mixer to whip the eggs and sugar, and I am sure the mixing action did not meet what the recipe asked for. Whipping with a stand mixer for 6+ minutes requires no more flour than what the recipe calls for.
This means there is a choice: Use a hand mixer and double the flour, or use a stand mixer and stay faithful to the recipe. I admit I use the stand mixer as the cookies are extra fudgy.
These cookies are plain awesome as it. I do plan to tinker with the recipe some more, just because that is what I do. For example I am pretty sure some walnuts would be an awesome addition. Before we go there, let us record this attempt so that it can be recreated.
Ingredients
- 454g (2 2/3 cups) dark chocolate, preferably 70% chocolate
- 57g (4 TBS) g unsalted butter - this amounts to about 1/2 stick of butter
- 85g rye flour, freshly milled if at all possible - this amounts to about 1.5 cup
- double the flour if you are not using a stand mixer for the eggs and sugar.
- 1-2 tsp baking powder
- I used 2 tsp and the recipe worked out great
- 1/4 tsp fine sea salt
- 200g (4 large or 3 extra large) eggs
- 1 tsp vanilla extract
- 300g muscovado sugar
- The original recipe called for 340g muscovado sugar
- I used dark brown sugar instead of muscovado with success
- Flaky sea salt for topping (optional but really nice)
Procedure
I pretty much followed the recipe from the cookbook
- In a double boiler melt the chocolate and the butter, Set aside to cool a little.
- In a bowl, whisk together the flour, the salt, and the baking powder. Set aside.
- In a mixer, using a whisk attachment, whip eggs on medium-high speed. Add the sugar slowly and keep mixing until the volume increases significantly. The volume will almost triple.
- This takes some time - the recipe calls for 6 minutes or so.
- Reduce the speed to low and mix in the melted chocolate-butter mixture and the vanilla.
- Make sure that the chocolate is cool enough so that the eggs don's coagulate.
- Use a spatula to scrape the wall balls.
- Stop the mixer, add the flour mixture and mix it in on a low speed until just combined.
- The dough will be quite soft. Transfer the dough in a metal bowl or use your mixer bowl. Cover the bowl with plastic wrap and refrigerate the dough for about 30 minutes.
- If the dough is in the fridge too long, it will harden and will be hard to scoop. In that case, let is warm up sufficiently, e.g. to the room temperature, so that you can work with it,
- Preheat the oven to 350F
- Line two baking sheets with parchment.
- Scoop the cookies with a rounded tablespoon onto the baking sheet, leaving about 2 inches of space between the balls.
- I used a small ice-cream scoop, which is a bit larger than the tablespoon, and had to bake the cookies 3 minutes longer.
- Optionally, sprinkle a few salt flakes on top of each cookie.
- I used salt from the bay of Piran, simply because I had it.
- Bake for 8-10 minutes until the cookies are baked through and have a rounded top from puffing up.
- Remove the baking sheets from the oven, let cool slightly, then continue to cool the cookies on a wire rack to cool completely.
Ta recept je prirejena verzija recepta za ržene čokoladne piškote iz imentne kuharsek knjige
Tartine Book No. 3.
Tartine je znana pekarna v San Franciscu, ki je objavila precej svojih receptov v kuharskih knjigah.
Recept ima dve spremembi: Ker rž vsebuje gluten, uporabljava ajdovo moko in dve zvrhani žlici brezglutenske moke, ki pomaga pri strukturi piškotov. Zmanjšala sva količino sladkorja, ker je originalen recept namenjen ameriškemu okusu, kjer so sladice veliko bolj sladke kot v Evropi.
Sestavine
- 450g temne čokolade, priporočava kvalitetno čokolado s svaj 70% kakava
- Opazka: 400g je dovolj, če se čokolada kupi v 100g tablicah
- 57g masla
- 85g ajdove moke, ali mešanica 2 žlic brezglutenske moke, ostanek pa je ajdova moka
- če ne uporabljate kuhinjskega robota oziroma prostostoječega mešalnika, priporočava, da količino moke podvojite, da se piškoti ne razlezejo
- pol vrečke pecilnega praška
- 1/4 žličke drobno mlete soli
- 4 velika jajca, približno 200g
- vrečka vanilijevega sladkorja
- 250g rjavega sladkorja
- Originalen recept uporabi 340g sladkorja muscovado.
- Če nimate rjavega sladkorja, bo bel sladkor tudi deloval
- Po izbiri: Drobci solnega cveta, da se poglobi okus čokolade
Postopek
- V skledi zmešajte moko, 1/4 žličke soli in pecilni prašek. Če ima pecilni prašek grudice, ga presejte skozi cedilo.
- Stalite čokolado in maslo: V kozici zavrite za en prst vode, ki naj vre zelo počasi. Na kozico položite kovinsko skledo, tako, da se dno ne dotika vode. V skledo dajte čokolado in maslo in občasno mešajte. Para bo ustvarila nežno vročino, ki bo čokolado in maslo stalila.
- Ko je čokolada staljena, ko umaknite s kozice, da se malo ohladi.
- Med tem, ko se čokolada tali, zmiksajte jajca na srednje visoki hitrosti mešalca. Počasi dodajate vanilijev sladkor in rjavi sladkor in mešajte, dokler se volumen ne poveča skoraj za tri krat.
- To je najlažje narediti s kuhinjskim robotom oziroma s prostostoječim mešalcem. čas mešanja je dobrih 6 minut, tako da pazite, da se mešalec ne pregreje.
- Če uporabite ročni mešalec, je najlažje zmešasti, koliko se da in podvojiti količino moke, da se piškoti ne razlezejo.
- Zmanjšajte hitrost mešalca in v testo dodajte staljeno čokolado in maslo.
- Čokolada se mora malenkost ohladiti, da se jajca ne skuhajo. Zato je treba čokolado dodajati med mešanjem.
- Na rahlo vmešajte moko v testo. To je najlažje narediti tako, da ustavite mešalec, dodate moko, in potem poženete mešalec na zelo nizki hitrosti. Mešajte samo tako dolgo, da je moka ravno vmešana in ne dlje.
- Testo bo zelo mehko in skoraj tekoče. Testo prestavite v kovinsko skledo ali uporabite kovinsko skledo vašega mešalca. Skledo pokrijte s pokrovom ali plastično folijo in jo dajte v hladilnik za približno 30 minut.
- Testo lahko pustite v hladilniku dlje, a se bo precej strdilo in bo z njim težko delati.
- Če je testo pretrdo, počakajte, da se na pultu dovolj segreje, da lahko z njim delate,
- Začnite segrevati pečico na 175C
- Na dva pekača položite papir za peko
- Za en piškot vzamite iz sklede zvrhano žlico testa, oblikujte ga v (pol)kroglo in ga položite na pekač. Med piškoti pustite kakih 5 cm prostora, ker se bodo malo razširili.
- To je najlažje narediti z žlico za delanje kepic sladoleda, samo pazite, da žlica ni prevelika.
- Če želite, dajte na vsak piškot drobec soli - najboljši je solni cvet. To bo poglobilo okus čokolade, so pa piškoti zelo dobri tudi brez dodane soli.
- Pečite 8-10 minut (midva jih pečeva 10 minut). Piškoti bodo zgoraj zaobljeni, ker se bodo malo napeli.
- Pekača odstranite iz pečice, počakajte, da se malo ohladi, potem pa piškote nežno prestavite na mrežo za hlajenje.
- V zaprti posodi ostanejo piškoti dobri do tri dni.